With Dior, Eyeliner Gets Playful at Paris Fashion Week

“I keep reinventing eyeliner for Maria Grazia [Chiuri], and every time we find something new to play with,” makeup artist Peter Philips mused backstage.

Leave it to Peter Philips to parlay a universal beauty trope like the ’60s eye into a statement for these times: In negative space lies the potential for freedom of expression.

Picking up on the gold “half-liner” seen at Dior’s haute couture show in July and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s inspirations for the spring-summer 2022 collection—namely the Piper Club, Rome’s hot boîte of the day—the creative and image director of Christian Dior Makeup established a beauty statement that also suggested the power of individualism.

Photographed by Christina Fragkou / @cris.fragkou

“I keep reinventing eyeliner for Maria Grazia, and every time we find something new to play with, it’s really fun,” Philips offered backstage before the show. “She said to me, ‘I like the space between’—and with a diverse cast of 90 models, she knew it was going to look great on everybody, just like the ponytail with a flick,” he said.

Using Diorshow On Stage Liner, Philips drew two sweeping lines, filled in the divide with kohl tones a shade or two lighter than models’ natural skin tone, and “just dressed” the eyelids with Mono Couleur Couture shadow. To keep the accent squarely on the eyes, he used Backstage Face & Body Foundation and talc-free Backstage Face & Body Powder-No-Powder and, on the lips, Rouge Dior Lip Balm.

On the subject of eyes, the makeup artist observed that, like his use of “outer-eye liner” in today’s show, the recent re-emergence of under-eye liner—another technique he’s often used for Dior—opens up a world possibility.

“If I need to use liner to create one look, I need to be practical about it. A double liner looks fun and it suits everybody,” he noted. “Then, if you want you can go in there with colors or dégradé. The space between opens up room to play.”

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This story originally appeared on: Vogue - Author:Tina Isaac-Goizé

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